Day 10

Of course the last day of filming wasn't going to go down without a twist. We arrived nice and early this morning. The plan was that Fabio would cross over so he could get some shots of Esteban and his sister Daniela arriving on the cable. Then he'd get some more shots of the community on the mountain. Simple enough. But when we arrived a soldier approached us and told us that last night they received information that there was 150 rebels on the other side of the mountain. And that they were planning an attack in a few days. This really shook us both, because we realized how much we had been playing with fire the last few days. Wewere lucky nothing happened. The soldiers warned that it was extremely dangerous for either of us to go, even accompanied by armed men. There was no way we were crossing.

So as an alternative we decided to give our camera to Diana, the teacher, and she crossed over and filmed the arrival, and then Nestor zipped back with the camera, and we watched the footage. She did a great job and we ended up getting what we needed anyway.

After that we pretty much had everything we needed for the shoot, so we kicked back and drank a few Maltas, while chatting with Nestor and Nelly. We thanked them for their time and their effort. It was a real community effort, this film. From Nestor zipping across 6 or 7 times in one day so that we got all the angles we needed, to Nelly providing us with snacks throughout the days to keep us going, to her husband Esekias walking across so we knew where we were going. The community really pulls together. They are a family.

And I will leave you with one final note from this trip, a little story I heard of today. A few months ago the local government wanted to rid the community of their cable. They felt it too dangerous and branded it an illegal act. But the community are so dependent on this cable, for its tradition, for its custom, for its ability to transport good so quickly and so on. So in protest twenty members of the community climbed onto the cable, and all hung onto it for dear life. It is a remarkable feat. I clung onto it myself to see what it felt like, by wrapping my legs and arms around it. I got tired after about five seconds. My hands nearly started to bleed from rubbing against the uncompromising tough skin of the thick chord. They did this for hours. Unafraid of the cable snapping. Unafraid of falling. Unafraid of death. And the local government backed off, and let them be.

Day 9

We started off the day by interviewing the mayor of Guayabetal. Well actually we started the day off waiting to interview the mayor of Guayabetal. All politicians, whether they are the president of the US, or the mayor of some little town in the countryside of Colombia, are bound to keep you waiting, at least for a little while. After a half-hour we were finally ushered into his office. He was a young man, in his early thirties, and proudly showed us a model he had sitting on his desk. It was of a man dangling from a cable, connected to two mountains. It was an replica of the cable of Casa de Tejas, where we have been filming the past week.

'This is the man,' he said pointing to the gentleman. 'And this sack is where the child goes, or the groceries, or whatever he needs to carry. This part is the break, this the cable, and these are the mountains. Down here is the river'.

I ask him if it is safe for a child to be carried in a sack like that, crossing over the river on the cable. 'Of course it isn't,' he says. 'But this is their custom. It is a custom for them. It is something echoed throughout the interview, the custom. I can't imagine a US mayor, or a UK mayor explaining such a thing as being acceptable because of custom. And if they did within two minutes you'd have someone chaining themselves to the cable in protest. But things like that just don't fly here. Here you do something like that and you are asking for trouble.

But the overall jist of what the mayor was saying was that the cable was indeed dangerous, but that the people of casa de teja were accustomed to this. So why change somebody's custom. He did ride the cable himself, and did admit that he was very scared when he did so. Overall, it was a really good interview and definitely an important piece to this picture. Afterward, we filmed around the town of Guayabetal and did a few vox pops of the locals, asking their perception of the cable. Every single one of them said it was very dangerous, and that they would never try it, nor would they allow their kids to try it. A stark contrast from what the mayor had said moments earlier.

After Guayabetal we hired a driver and filmed landscapes until we reached Pipiral, which is a little beyond Casa de Teja. The weather was in a good mood for us today. The sun not too bright, the rain not to heavy, the driver not too fast. Maybe the Andes are a fan of documentary after all.

We got everything we needed within about an hour and a half, and then headed home, a pretty straight forward afternoon. Tomorrow is my day to be the bench warmer. Fabio will be heading over to the other side of the mountain escorted by three heavily armed soldiers while I wait on the safe side. He will be filming final bits and pieces of the school, the farm and so on. Then the day after we will head to Bogota for a few meetings with producers in regards to The Cable. I always feel that the subject and audience should be one and the same. So hopefully we can suss out a way The Cable can be screened before a Colombian audience. Also, we want to explore the possibility of co-productions with Latin American filmmakers and companies. This continent is bursting with amazing stories. I've come across 3 or 4 in Colombia alone that would warrant another trip. And I feel a very strong connection anyway to Latin tales given my own Cuban heritage. Will keep you posted on how it all progresses.

Day 8

It was a pretty productive and spontaneous day today. We got to see a dog zipped across the cable in the morning. The locals say the dogs really enjoy it. Afterward a few more teenagers arrived and chatted with us, and gave us very insightful responses. It's funny making documentaries. Some days nothing goes right, other days the opposite.

We interviewed Nestor (I have been calling him Ernesto incorrectly) about the lack of support from the government. It is a very sore spot for them. The local government has been promising to build a teleferico (cable car), which would make riding the cable much safer. But the government haven't helped them at all. When I first arrived I came with the perception that would they were doing, this cable riding, was a little out there, and very irresponsible, especially regarding the kids. But I'm coming to realize that the people are forced into this. They are resourceful and actually very creative.

They have no other option, and have come up with something that works for them. I tell Nestor that I have a lot of admiration for the people here. That most people in life, when things don't go their way, they sit and wait for things to be put right. 'We never wait,' Nestor said. 'We act, we find a solution.' The cable was very dangerous up until about 2 weeks ago. It was nearly 30 years old, and could have snapped at any given time. So the community pulled all their money together to purchase a new one. It cost them roughly $7000.

It is something they are very proud of, their resourceful nature. But still, the fact that they are unsupported by their government pains them. I am meeting the mayor tomorrow to ask them the questions they have been asking aloud these past few days. I am curious what kind of answers he will offer. I am not sure how things work here, if I can ask tough questions, if I can push. Maybe there will be consequences. Fabio suggests I ask whatever I like, and he can phrase it in the most diplomatic way he can.

After filming I had easily the best fruit I ever tasted in my life today. It's called Anon. It's milky white, and sweet, and tastes about 10 times better than a mango. You can only get it in certain parts of the world. I'd love to bring it back to my wife because I know she'd just love it. Nelly cut one off her tree and told us it was a gift from the farm.

Day 7

We finally managed to get the point of view shot we were looking for. It took a few tries but we got it. The first time Ernesto set off all was good, except the friction caused by the cable made the camera zoom in, which messed up the focus and overall quality. So we taped down the zoom, the focus, and exposure. We also taped a bottle cop over the record button to make sure there was no chance of it getting touched accidentally. There was absolutely no way it could get messed up again. On our third try today it worked. I have to say the shot was worth all the effort. We did one from his perspective, looking forward, one looking down, so you can see the trees and river beneath, one to the side, and then one looking at him. They are incredible. We played the footage back to Ernesto and asked him if what he saw looked anything like what he sees when he crosses over. 'Exactamente,' he said. So for myself, and for people who watch this film, this is as close as we will get to crossing the cable.

The day, of course, was not without its hiccups. During one of Ernesto's trips Fabio was waiting behind the huge tires meant to cushion the blow of the rider. He wanted to get a nice angle of Ernesto arriving. But about 3 quarters of the way over we realized that it wasn't Ernesto, but two huge sacks of fruit, going about 120 kilometers per hour. They tie two large branches to the sacks, which is meant to slow it down some. But it has barely any effect. Fabio was focused completely on the shot so didn't realize the velocity it was travelling at. Nelly screamed for Fabio to move, but it was too late. So the two sacks slammed into the tires with a violent thud. Fortunately, Fabio was not leaning completely against the tires. If he was maybe an inch or two closer he most likely would have had his leg broken, or been tossed back a few feet onto a pile of rocks.

Almost on cue a heavy rain started pouring

down, big drops pelting the earth, and creating a deep fog. Two roosters hid under a table while Nelly's children ran around. Large trucks shifted crates of cargo along the road in front. In the distance a beautiful mist emerged between two mountains, slowly creeping up to the skies. We felt this was an unmissable shot. So we stripped off our tshirts and travelled a little down the mountain to capture it. It was even more beautiful the closer we got. A seductive pink, snaking its way around the mountain's hips, while the black river hurtled forward, as if it were on a race to Villavicencio, or to wherever it was going.

Day 6

Very frustrating day today. I've been told by the local soldiers that I can no longer cross over to the other mountain. There is still rebel activity over there. Not near the school, much higher up in the mountain in fact, but word travels fast in these parts, especially when an American (me) is lurking around asking questions with a camera. They fear that I may get kidnapped, and to cross over is taking to big a risk. They say the rebels could kidnap me and use me for blackmail, or ransom, or to try make some point against the US government. So unfortunately I will have to sit the bench while Fabio crosses over one more time. We only have a few more things we need to get from the other side any way. So while Fabio films it I will be the cheerleader on the safe side. It is a helpless position to be in. But I just couldn't take that risk and put my family under that kind of mental and emotional strain if something were to happen to me. Funny that I just saw Mighty Heart with Angelina Jolie about a week before I left. It was about Daniel Pearl, the Jewish American journalist who was decapitated by the Taliban. I don't want any part of that experience so I'll be listening to the soldiers.

I listened to this interview not too long ago of this American filmmaker who was making a documentary in Colombia and he said that while nothing ever actually happened to him there was always this fear in the back of his mind that something might happen. And I can completely understand what he is talking about. Here there are so many reminders, so many signals, that tell you danger can be around any corner. Fabio says everyone grows up this way in Colombia and they just learn to live with it. It is funny that such a beautiful country could hurt you so bad.

We didn't get a great deal done today because we had to go back and forth with the soldiers for a good while, and after that were feeling pretty deflated. But tomorrow we have a lot planned. Just hope there are no more obstacles.

Day 5

We decided not to stay on the other side of the mountain after all. Fabio’s father alerted us to the fact that there might still be rebels lurking around there. And this was echoed by a soldier as well. Ten years ago rebels ruled the area. They waited along the roads and would randomly kidnap people or even kill them. Those they kidnapped would be brought into the jungle, where they would be forced to walk for days at a time to avoid being traced. There hasn’t been much rebel activity for some time and that is enforced through a very strong presence from the soldiers monitoring the area. The soldiers can be seen everywhere, holding large machine guns. And now I understand why. They are friends of the community and are the main reason why the rebels have stopped. Any time one of the soldiers drops by Nelly will offer them a slice of mango, or a piece of fruit, a glass of water. Everyone wants them on their side. And one of those soldiers told us that to stay over would be way too risky. He told us we would practically be sitting ducks if we stayed over there. We would be trapped with no way off because it is impossible to walk across at night, and there is no way I am going on that cable.

So instead we walked across once again. But while we won’t go on the cable we decided that our equipment should at least enjoy the ride. If those guys can bring huge sacks of rice and other cargo, we figured bringing over a camera bag and tripod should be a piece of cake. I'm sure our insurers would be thrilled by this. But actually, we felt it was probably safer going that way than with us, up and down this slippery mountain. So we hitched it onto Ernesto and off he went. He came back about 30 minutes later and we were off. The walk today was much easier. I think we are getting used to it, and we were able to do it within an hour, which is pretty much the standard of the locals. When we arrived a class was already in session so we silently observed, filming them in action.

After that we followed Esteban and his Daniela, back to their farm, where their father Ruben was waiting. These are the two children that do use the cable. As far as I know as of right now they are the only two children. Their father is a very soft spoken man, who proudly showed us around his farm. He had two mules, chickens, and a whole range of other animals we didn’t have the chance to see. He told us that the cable was safe and that is why he allowed his children to use it. But he also spoke of the frustration of not having an alternative mode of transport.

The community has been waiting on a tereferico (basket) for some time but the government has not gotten their act together to deliver on this. The basket would make travelling along it much safer. I learned also that the cable was never meant for a human. It was first used in the 1800s when woodsman were working the land. They needed an easy way to get the wood transported back to the other side of the mountain. So they devised the cable. Eventually people started using it too as it was just way more practical. Now it has become their way of life. It is part of who they are. It is a real shame though that they must risk their lives like this because the government refuses to help them. We have pencilled in an interview with the local mayor on Monday. Hopefully he will answer this question.

Tomorrow, we will be returning to the other side of the mountain once again to see Esteban and Daniela, and venture a little deeper into their farm. After that we will cross over with Deisy and her two daughters. She has never allowed her daughters to cross the cable out of fear it will snap. So they always walk. But Deisy is also 8 and a half months pregnant. I cannot imagine how she can possibly make that journey to the other side in her condition. If two healthy men of 30 can barely do it, how can she? Anyway, will write more tomorrow.

Day 4

Today kicked off early at 6am. We arrived to film Ernesto bring milk over via the cable. After that we did a short interview with him and then caught some footage of Nelly and her husband milking the cows. Farming life has a nice pace to it, everything is slow, measured, dictated largely by the pace of the animals.

The children arrived at around 9 with their father Ruben. The boy was five and the girl was 11. Both were confident and a little excited by our presence. We asked if they felt nervous before going on the cable. 'No,' the boy said. 'It's normal.' Ruben clung himself to the cable and then put the boy into a sack. The boy sat their patiently like a pile of potatoes while Ruben latched himself to the girl.

Even though they regard this as normal, I notice that there is an air of anxiety and excitement every single time they embark on the cable. I started to feel very tense myself, especially at the sight of this little boy in there. He was peaking out bravely, telling us again how easy it was. The way the sack fastens to the metal bit is simply by poking a hole through it. So it is hardly secure, especially given that the person riding the cable travels in excess of 100 km per hour. It is a recipe for disaster. But on this occasion fortunately everything goes ok.

After they depart we try to get some Point of view shots of the person riding the cable by having Ernesto tape the camera to his rope. We spend about a half hour assembling the thing, making sure it is secure, making sure that the frame is nice, that it won't obstruct his journey. He sets off, and then one hour later returns, a proud smile on his face. I can tell he enjoys this film stuff. I check the camera and nothing has been recorded. He is exhausted now. While it takes only 30 seconds to get across, to reach the cable on the other side still requires a 20 minute trek through probably the most difficult part of the other mountain. So we chill for a couple hours and then we try again. Again, make sure it's taped, again make sure its framed, and check three times that it is recording. He sets off, one hour later returns, completely confident that this time it worked. I check it and again nothing was recorded. We are totally dumbfounded. I feel like throwing it (the camera) into the rio negro. We are going to try again next week. It is definitely a shot worth having so we'll have to figure it out.

We're all frustrated and tired so we have lunch and chat with Nelly. I find myself struggling to communicate with Nelly and many of her family. They are campesinos (country people) and speak with a very strong accent and use a lot of slang. So I barely understand them and they barely understand me. Even asking for a bottle of water draws a blank stare from them. We are speaking the same language but we're not if you know what I mean. So rather than try to do interviews I just do them in English and have Fabio translate, just to save time.

After we finish lunch, we do a few more shots of the landscape and then head back to Villavicencio. I buy myself some boots for hiking, a mattress, and a few other trinkets. The plan is to walk to the other side of the mountain tomorrow and then stay there for three days. Making that journey every day is just too tough so we will stay there for a couple days and get everything we need and then come back.

Should be exciting.